The Santa Cruz Sentinel wrote:July 16, 2006
Profiles of hemp pioneersThe Santa Cruz Sentinel<span color=postbold>Avatar Imports</span>
Address: 814 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz
Phone: 427-5140
Web:
www.avatarimports.netOwners: Tim Frankel, Jeph Hemmer and Jhaindra Ghimire
Employees: 5 soon to be 6
There's a hint of incense when you walk into Avatar Imports, a clothing shop specializing in organic cotton and hemp garments.
The owners are most proud to report their certification by the Fair Trade Federation, thanks to their garment manufacturing operation in Nepal, where workers earn more than a living wage.
Manager Marquita Garcia points out hemp styles, some blended with recycled silk.
"It's the softest wearable hemp I've ever seen," she said.
A Dash Hemp shirt priced at $40 is a bargain in her opinion.
Another of her favorites: Sweatpants with a gusset at the crotch, priced at $50.
"We have more for men than women but we're working on it," she said.
Besides the ecological benefits, hemp clothing stays cleaner longer, she added.
The store carries hemp shirts by Crop Circles and reusable coffee filters made in Thailand, in addition to local brands.
Frankel and Hemmer, who developed the Santa Cruz Hemp logo, said their hemp clothing selection is smaller than it used to be.
The best hemp comes out of China, Frankel explained, but he and Hemmer stopped doing business with China because of concerns over sweatshop labor.
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<span color=postbold>Eco Goods</span>
Address: 1130 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz
Phone: 429-5758
Web:
www.ecogoods.comOwner: Elaine Berke
Number of employees: 5-7
Eco Goods is much more than a hemp store, carrying a wide selection of organic products. Variety is the best way to describe it. You'll find backpacks, linens and shoes in addition to clothing for men and women.
The hemp selection includes a hand-loomed camisole by Dash Hemp, a local brand, for $49.95, hemp silk skirts by Of The Earth, priced at $58, and shoes by Ecolution, another local brand, $79.95.
"You didn't see this kind of quality eight to 10 years ago," said manager Lily Ruderman, a UC Santa Cruz graduate. "It's easy to take care of. You can machine-wash it."
She is a fountain of information about industrial hemp.
"It's very environmentally friendly," she said. "It's a fast-growing, renewable resource, and it doesn't need fertilizer or pesticides."
The first drafts of the Declaration of Independence were printed on hemp paper, according to a handout created by Eco Goods owner Elaine Berke, and in the future, hemp plant pulp could be used to make gasoline or methanol.
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<span color=postbold>U.S. Hemp Co.</span>
Address: 2017 North Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz
Phone: 471-9224
Owner: Aaron Carvajal, partner Amy Hoppen
Number of employees: Will hire 4-5
What's striking about the U.S. Hemp store is its size. It looks like an upscale boutique, with socks and shoes, shirts and skirts, and beanies and bags attractively arranged. All the merchandise is made of hemp.
"It's got the strength of denim but is nearly as soft as cotton," owner Aaron Carvajal said of the fiber. "It also protects from UV rays."
As a fabric, hemp is like a chameleon, light and delicate in a woven scarf, tough and sturdy in denim jeans, and textured and indestructible in a shoe.
Prices range from $18 for a longsleeve shirt that is 55 percent hemp to $90 for a men's polo shirt by Dash Hemp, a local brand. Another local brand, Ecolution, is everywhere, from a stylish mini-backpack, $28, to a purse, $38, and a courier bag, $67.
The colors include basic black, tan and olive, but some of the women's clothing comes in blue, purple or orange.
"A lot of our textiles are from China, a little bit from India," Carvajal said. "In today's environment, it's probably not feasible to manufacture in the U.S. at all."
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<span color=postbold>Ecolution</span>
Address: 953 Tower Place, Live Oak
Phone: 800-987-4367 for retail orders
Web:
www.ecolution.comFounder/president: Dylan Hilsman
Number of employees: 18 in Santa Cruz, 160-175 in Romania
Dylan Hilsman was ahead of the curve when he started Pan World Traders, a hemp business, in 1990. Since growing hemp was illegal in the U.S., he developed a hemp processing factory in Romania. It's a fair wage operation. After expanding production capacity five years ago, sales quintupled to more than $5 million a year.
Today, the Ecolution brand is sold worldwide. The wholesale manufacturer is known for its diversity of hemp products, from twine to fabric and clothing, shoes and canvas bags. About 18 employees work in a sales and distribution office off 17th Avenue in Live Oak, and 160 to 175 employees are in Romania.
"A lot of the competition has come and gone," said vice president of sales James Roberts. "We stuck it out, partly because we don't have any external investment. It's just us committed crazy people."
Hemp grown in China often is processed with chemical acids, but Ecolution uses a mechanical process to preserve the integrity and strength of the hemp fiber.
Roberts, a 2001 politics graduate of UC Santa Cruz, believes the American ban on industrial hemp cultivation will be lifted eventually, but he doesn't foresee a rapid shift to American processing.
"It would take millions in investment," he said.
He admits to feeling bothered when advocates claim hemp will save the planet.
"But it could be used as a shade crop for strawberries," he pointed out. "That could save a lot of money and a lot of plastic."
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<span color=postbold>Dash Hemp</span>
Address: 2720 Smith Grade, Santa Cruz
Phone: 1-877-561-1824
Web:
www.dashhemp.comOwner: Richard Dash
Employees: 2
Richard Dash used to sell his hemp fashions mainly to hemp stores. Since he began approaching mainstream boutiques last year, his wholesale sales quadrupled.
"It's a whole educational process," he said, explaining that people need to touch and feel the fabric. "There is the stigma that hemp is drugs."
A Cal history grad who started Hemp Dash in 1997, Dash has more changes up his sleeve.
He's going to a big trade show in Salt Lake City for retailers of outdoor wear. He's added coordinates to individual items. He's hired Erika Dietrich to help him develop more for women.
"I simply came to my senses," said Dash, who's been in the apparel business since the 1970s. "Women spend a lot more than men do."
He plans to open a wholesale office in the Sash Mill in Santa Cruz to complement his online sales. His Web selection is small and upscale, aimed at people over 30 who can spend $79 for a hand-loomed hoodie or a knit polo shirt. Satisfied customers include Virgin Air's Richard Branson.
About six years ago, Dash switched to his manufacturing operation from Los Angeles to China.
"No country makes better piece goods," he said.
For a long time, he resisted, but when a longsleeve shirt turned out three-quarters length, he called his travel agent. He was impressed with the quality of labor in China. A friend runs the factory for him.
Dash likes hemp clothing himself. He finds it comfortable.
"I haven't worn a cotton T-shirt in 10 years," he said.
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<span color=postbold>Goodhumans</span>
Address: Mailing address 500 Soquel Ave. Suite F, Santa Cruz
Phone: 1-866-420-4208
Web:
www.goodhumans.comOwners: Rich and Mary Ann Waters
Number of employees: 0
Some people say it's more stressful to be self-employed, but Rich Waters hasn't found that to be the case. He used to write software over the hill and his wife Mary Ann used to work on catalogs for L.H. Selman Glass Gallery.
They founded Goodhumans, an online retailer, six years ago. Their niche: People who want to be environmentally responsible, but don't want to spend "an arm and a leg."
The Web site lists 453 guidelines to be a better human being. It also features nearly 50 items of hemp clothing, including socks, shoes, board shorts, exercise pants, casual and dressy dresses — nothing over $70. Local brands Ecolution and Dash Hemp are available.
Waters said he likes hemp because "it's natural and it's healthier to wear."
To cut waste, he doesn't mail catalogs, but prints copies on demand. He downsized to a 1,000-square-foot warehouse for more economical storage of stock.
"We can get stuff within a week from the manufacturer," he said.
The biggest challenge is figuring out what customers want. In the fashion industry, buyers typically order in spring for the fall season. Sales have grown due to repeat business, but so has competition, sign of a maturing industry.
"Now we focus on Internet advertising," Water said. "We want to make sure we're the top hit when they're ready to buy."